My graduation collection at Esmod Oslo. New couture
menswear collection s/s 2010. Entitled Hermaphroditus - Gender Confusion.
Male or female? Which category do you belong to? This should be a personal choise made by the way you feel on the inside, not by physical appearance.
I want to eliminate the rule that says if you are born a boy, you as a result of this have to dress and behave in a sertain way.
I've taken my inspiration from the greek mythology figure Hermaphroditus, God of effeminate men. The tale goes that Hermaphroditus was created when the nymth of the waters of salmacis fell deeply in love with the beautiful young boy. She hid in the forest and watched him as he undressed and bathed in her lake. Then she ran to him, embraced him and shouted to the Gods that they must never part. The Gods answered her prays and they became one. His body was beautiful and delicate like that of a woman, but with the masculine quality and vigour of a man.
I have also taken inspiration from the greek orthodox religion with their sacred icons. The icons being a window into the spiritual world, not as an object of decoration.
My collection expresses this same gender confusion, they are soft and feminine , but with a masculine cuality. This gender confusion is a window into the spiritual world of my customer, he is longing to express his feminine side.
For my consept I have taken the classical male suit and effeminated it by adding the corset and the draping.
My key piece the corset, creates my new silhouette. A silhouette which accentuates the female forms , such as the waist and hips.
I've chosen feminine gendered fabrics, such as silk, organza and brocade. It was also important for me to find fabrics which could be draped, the draping representing the cursed waters of salmacis. Almoust all the fabrics are transparent so that they can reveele the masculine male body.
The icons have been my inspiration for using distressing of the fabrics as a technique. Giving the fabrics an antique look, almoust a feeling of having lived before.
The 70's theatre group, The Cockettes have been my muse. They challanged our conception of sexuality. Male, female? Who cares! You can dress in the way you feel. Thereby creating gender confusion.
My target group is within the creative field. He is curious, confident and a trendsetter. They are not sircled around one specific market, but can be found in cities around the whole world.
